Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
